Chai Pilgrimage

Atithi Devo Bhava or “Guest is God” is a teaching from the Hindu scriptures, the Upanishads, and a living custom practiced throughout Nepal and India. It means that when a guest arrives at your home, even if unexpected, you welcome them and treat them as the Divine. Customarily this means you are received with great enthusiasm, like a dear friend, given the most comfortable seat in the house and served a fresh cup of chai!

Chai is the welcome mat, a gesture of friendship that transcends language. It is a humble offering and an invitation to be part of the family. It melted our hearts over and over to experience this profound level of hospitality as we traveled throughout the subcontinent.

And a cup of chai is usually only the beginning. It is often followed by a spread of mouth-watering food that appears out of nowhere. (I have theorized that Indians are always cooking, just in case someone shows up.) Hungry or not, it’s time to eat. Then the stares, as your every expression is scrutinized for a smile or a sound of satisfaction.  And just finishing your plate is not good enough, “More chipati? Subji? Dhal? Take!” I finally learned to put one hand over the plate, and the other over my full belly, while delivering a friendly Indian head waggle to prevent the host from slopping more food in front of me.

Being treated as God is a huge responsibility. You must eat everything you are given, or risk appearing disrespectful to your host. But if being in the position of the Almighty demands being embraced with a warm cup of chai and delicious food every time I walk into a home, it is a liability I can handle.

According to the ancient wisdom of Ayurveda, pure cow’s milk is nectar.  It is complete to nourish and strengthen the body and is considered sattvic, promoting peace in the mind.  It helps induce sound sleep, fortifies the nervous system, provides strength and mass, and is a rich source of protein and essential minerals and vitamins.  It is no wonder that Hindus consider the cow the most sacred of animals.

Goshala (cow sanctuary) at NKB Ashram in Vrindavan

In India, one’s relationship with the cow is quite different.  The cow, kind of like the dog in the West, is considered part of the family.  In semi-urban areas in India where outdoor space is limited, we met cows that had their own room as part of the house.  The cows are milked each day, and for those without a cow, fresh milk is delivered, usually by bicycle.  The milk is then boiled before use to purify it and make it more digestible.  To further enhance digestibility, it is often watered down with warming spices added, thus masala chai.

Milk delivery man cycling through Durbur Square in Bhaktapur, Nepal

Neighbors in Bhaktapur who provided our milk

Cow caretaker in Chitrakoot, India

There are many factors to consider when choosing which kind of milk to use in your chai.  When possible, it is preferable to buy milk that is certified organic or from a small dairy farm.  The certification guarantees that it is free of added hormones, antibiotics and chemicals, and smaller farms are more likely to provide more humane living conditions and better diet, compared to factory-farmed cows.

Most store-bought milk is put through two processes that can compromise its quality, taste and digestibility – pasteurization and homogenization.  Pasteurized milk is heated at a controlled temperature over a specific period of time to slow the growth of harmful microorganisms, thus extending its shelf life.  Some research suggests that low heat pasteurization alters the protein molecules in such a way that it makes it difficult for digestive enzymes to do their work.  This is different from boiling milk, which can break down the proteins completely, thus aiding digestion.  Homogenization then reduces the milk fat into smaller, more uniform sizes, so that the oily cream does not separate and float on top over the watery portion of milk.  Some researchers believe that these smaller fat molecules regroup into a sort of capsule, rendering them indigestible by the body.

Our neighbors’ cows in New Mexico, USA

We feel ourselves fortunate to have access to pure, raw, fresh cows’ milk, just like we drank in India and Nepal.  It is our liquid, white gold.  It is milked the same day we pick it up, and has the seal of freshness, a layer of thick cream, floating on top.  Unfortunately however, in our country, pure milk rarely exists any more.  In fact, in many states it is not even legal to sell.  There is an ongoing controversy of whether raw, un-pasteurized milk is safe to consume because of the possibility of bacterial and viral contaminants.  On the other side, are raw milk advocates, who question whether the legal, pasteurized, hormone and antibiotic laden, homogenized milk (that doesn’t even taste like milk) is truly safe for human consumption.

Ultimately, like anything else, all we can do is to educate ourselves and choose what we feel is best for our family.  We choose to drink the pure contraband milk, homogenize it by using the low-tech method of shaking the bottle before use, and bring it to a momentary boil while preparing masala chai.

Goat’s milk is not just an alternative to cows milk, but stands alone as a tasty and nutritious choice for chai.  The first few years that I made masala chai, I used nothing else.  It contains comparable levels of calcium and protein compared to cows milk, and many people who have sensitivity to cows milk find goats milk easier to digest.  Goats milk is naturally homogenized, meaning that separation of fat does not occur like cows milk.

Benares goat

Water Buffalo milk is extremely difficult to obtain in North America, but is quite common in India, and is ideal for making masala chai.  One of our best-loved chais was the rich, creamy buffalo milk chai served in a clay cup in Benares.  Buffalo milk provides more calcium and other minerals, and more protein, while having less cholesterol compared to cow’s milk.

Water Buffalo on the banks of the Ganga in Benares

Soy, Rice, Almond, Hemp and other nut, seed, grain and legume milks offer an alternative for those who cannot, or choose not to, consume mammal milk.  The nutritional content varies with the plant used, and many are fortified with vitamins and minerals.  Often other ingredients like thickeners, sweeteners and flavorings are added, so if you are not making your own, it is a good idea to read the label to know exactly what you are drinking.  When making masala chai, know that most plant-based milks are thinner than full-fat animal milks, so when using a recipe, it is not an equal substitution.  Again, choosing organically grown foods is healthier for your body and the planet.

Almond Milk Recipe

Soak 1cup of raw almonds in a bowl overnight with enough water to cover almonds.  Cover bowl.

Drain and rinse almonds in the morning.

Add 3 cups of water and blend together in blender.

Strain almond ‘milk’ into a glass mason-type jar by pouring through a nut milk bag (can also be found at your local health food store)

Cover tightly with lid and keep in refrigerator or use immediately for chai.

Goshala in Citrakoot (above and below)

Pahupatinath is an ancient Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati River in Kathmandu, Nepal.  Dating back to the 5^th century, it is considered one the oldest and most important Shiva temples in all of Nepal.  One early myth tells the story of Lord Shiva taking refuge in the woodland valley to evade his Godly duties.  Residing in the forest, he became renown as Pashupati, the Lord of the animals.  When the other Gods finally found him, they were quite angry, and insisted that he return to his residence on Mount Kailash.  To escape, he disguised himself as a deer and ran off to hide in the forest.  In the ensuing chase, a piece of his antler was broken off and fell to the ground.

Many years went by, and the antler lingam, or empowered phallic symbol, was covered over by vegetation and the passing of time.  Finally, a cow herder noticed one of his cows going to the same place each day to offer up her milk onto the earth.  When he examined that spot, he found the horn and recognized it as a Shiva Lingam.  Soon, it began to be worshipped by a growing number of people and eventually became the site of a temple.  Now Pashupatinath is an elaborate temple complex with extensive grounds comprised of the main pagoda-style temple, numerous smaller Shiva lingam shrines and burning ghats along the river, where Hindu devotees are cremated.

It was here, where a cow made her milk oblations to the lingam of Pashupati, that the renowned holy man known as “Dudhadhari Baba” or “Milk Baba” welcomed us.   Ram Krishna Das earned his Milk Baba title because of his austerity of receiving his nourishment exclusively from milk for over 25 years.  According to Ayurveda, milk is considered a Sattvic, or spiritually pure, food.  It is peacefully obtained from a cow, considered the holiest of animals, without the loss of life, and is complete to sustain human life.

The saddhu, now around 80 years old, has also committed to wearing his hair in jatta, or dreadlocks, since he took his initiation at 18.  If not wrapped up on top of his head, they would drag on the ground behind him.  He has practiced many austerities including years of meditation in isolation, barefoot pilgrimages through the Himalayas and a lifetime of celibacy.  He is a great scholar and master of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana, whose teachings he fully embodies.

Milk Baba invited us into his small kutir, or ascetic’s hut, where a circle of temple musicians sat by candlelight singing verses of the Ramayana.  Between verses, Baba would discourse on their meaning.  Not being fluent in the dialect, we sat quietly sipping the chai he offered us and enjoying the darshan, or vision, of this gentle living saint.

In the West, yoga is sometimes perceived as a type of physical workout that involves getting into tights and molding the body into contorted positions while keeping one’s hands in a prayer position.  The word yoga, however, literally means “union,” and is an ancient Indian spiritual science designed to bring about the union with, or realization of, our own Divinity.  Just as all religions can lead one to God, each created to suit the many different types of people and cultures, so there are various paths of yoga.  These yogic paths do not just involve standing on one’s head, but utilize the mind and heart as tools to help us become fully conscious of the One.  The four predominant yogic practices are Raja Yoga, which uses various methods to control the mind and enter into meditation; Jnana Yoga, or using knowledge to realize the Divine Truth; Bhakti Yoga, or the yoga of love and devotion to the Divine; and Karma Yoga, the yoga of doing selfless service for other living beings.

Chai Yoga, or the conscious preparation of chai, can also be taken as a path to enlightenment by incorporating the practice of one or more of these four yogas.  First, we compose a mindful awareness of our being on every level: our attitude, body, breath and senses.  In other words, clear the mind, be comfortable in the body, breath, and be aware of, but not overtaken by, sensory perceptions while preparing chai.  Only then can we access the depth of meditation that will allow union.  This is Raja Yoga.  This state of meditation is the door into the innermost mind, beyond thought, that is not separate from the cosmic mind, one with the simmering masala universe, wherein lies knowledge of Absolute Truth.  This deep wisdom is found through the practice of Jnana Yoga.

Love is always present.  It is the energy that binds the universe together as One.  If the first two yogas sound a little bit too out there, then we can embrace Bhakti Yoga, our innate love for the creator, as our path towards union.  We set the intention to prepare the best cup of chai we are capable of as an offering to our Divine Beloved.  With love in our hearts, a vision of the Divine Form in our mind’s eyes and praise on our lips, every movement we make as we prepare the chai is transformed into an expression of devotion.  Without attachment to the fruits of our labor, and expecting nothing in return for our kindness, our actions then become the practice of Karma Yoga.  Serving good-tasting, healthy chai is a great service to mankind.  And as we realize it is the Divine who is stirring the pot through our hands, the chai becomes a pure offering.

When one is fully engaged with a yogic practice, anything, even the simple act of making chai, can be an opportunity to consciously merge with the Divine Source. The secret is, to prepare the chai with utter sincerity, as if it will be the last time.

One unforgettable soul we were determined to reunite with on our chai pilgrimage was a young chai wallah named Shivam.  We met him on our previous visit to India and it was his loving memory that inspired us to return and document a tea-sipping journey.  At that time, Jenny and I were in Rishikesh and looking for a leisurely way to spend one of our final days in India together.  We decided it would be fun to just wander around and find places to drink chai.

The first chai shop we encountered was inside an unobtrusive, white cement building. The words Aman’s Tip Top Service Center on the sign were barely discernable beneath layers of dirt and smoke stains, but nonetheless, attracted us in for a peek. It was poorly lit on the inside and appeared unoccupied.  A low, pink, iron grate separated the ‘kitchen’ from two tables. On the shelves were toilet paper and cases of bottled water for sale, little else. Then we saw a small boy standing on a crate, still barely taller than the countertop, who seemed to appear from the ethers.  I pointed at him and asked, “chai wallah?” He looked up at us with bright, wide eyes and waggled his head. “Chai?” he asked.  “Do masala chai,” we responded together.

This was Shivam, the youngest chai wallah we had ever met.  He lit up his gas burner and quickly began working.  With scrunched forehead and eyebrows, he smashed a cardamom pod and a tiny nub of ginger and tossed them into the warming pot of water. He added loose black tea and milk and stirred the mixture with a metal spoon.  After coming to a boil he added a couple heaping spoonfuls of sugar and swirled the pot until it almost boiled over.  The pot looked twice the size of his head, but he handled it with the ease of someone who had made thousands of cups of chai.  He was focused.  His tongue stuck out in concentration as he poured the brew through a pink plastic strainer into another pot, then into two glasses.  He delivered our chai with a big, crooked grin.

The taste of that chai and Shivam’s adorable countenance remained etched onto our chai-loving hearts, until four years later, we went back to India seeking more simple, yet memorable, chai moments.  We returned to Aman’s Tip Top Service Center, same name, now serving biscuits and sodas, more tables, inside and out, and bustling with Western travelers who are likewise charmed by Shivam.  He has learned some pretty good English, probably more from his exposure to tourists, than from school.  When he is not in school, he works at his father’s shop making chai, now training his little brother.  We showed him some pictures we took of him on our last trip.  He looked at them and showed us his same endearing smile.

Holi is the Indian festival of colors celebrating the return of spring with boisterous behavior, bright colors, music and joyful dance. It is a time when the established segregation between caste and gender, and the strictly modest Indian social norms, are temporarily put on hold, and everyone can cut loose, release their pent up winter frustrations and have fun.

The tradition is attributed to several different legends, one of which is associated with the young prankster Krishna and his sweet love, Radha.  Krishna, who was upset that he had very dark skin compared to Radha’s fair complexion, put colors on her face to make her any color he desired.  This act was immortalized into a tradition commemorated across India, Nepal and anywhere in the world with a Hindu population.

At the time of our chai pilgrimage, we were staying at the Neem Karoli Baba Ashram in Vrindavan.  In the ashram, devotees celebrated Holi, by lovingly smearing colored powders of red, pink, yellow and green across each other’s cheeks and singing traditional Holi songs about the enduring love of Krishna and Radha.  On the streets outside the ashram gates, Holi was a pigment pandemonium, with mobs of hoodlums from outlying villages dumping buckets of dyed water and throwing handfuls of colored powder into the faces of barefoot pilgrims circumambulating the holy city.

We were able to avoid some potentially soggy situations when confronted by gangs of mischievous children set on dousing us with colored water.  We would say, “Wait! One photo, please!” and the kids would lower their water cannons and pose for us.  While they were temporarily frozen, we would snap a picture and run.

There is a long, complicated list of abbreviated jargon to describe the grades of orthodox teas.  The grade describes the size of the dried tealeaf and whether it is primarily broken leaf, whole leaf, bud or very young bud.  Although the grade does not designate the quality or flavor of the tea, it is assumed that the larger the leaf, the better the tea.  When orthodox tea is harvested, generally two leaves and a bud are handpicked from the end of the shoot.  A sizable ratio of buds to leaf is also considered desirable.

The first thing to know is that Orange Pekoe (OP) has nothing to do with oranges.  It is not a kind of tea, but again, simply describes size.  OP refers to long, pointed leaves that have been harvested after the bud is fully open, thus contain no buds, or tips.  Pekoe (P), without the orange, refers to shorter leaves than OP.  Flowery Orange Pekoe (FOP) is young, tender leaf with some buds.  Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe (GFOP) is FOP with golden tips, the yellow ends that characterize the favorable immature young buds harvested early in the growing season.  Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe (TGFOP) means it is abundant with golden tips. This is considered some pretty good tea.  The joke we heard is that it stands for Too Good For Ordinary People.  But it gets better.  There’s Finest Tippy Golden Flowery Onange Pekoe (FTGFOP) that is considered by the estate to be of exceptional quality.   Super Finest Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe (SFTGFOP) is regarded as the best of the best.  But wait, if they put the number 1 after it (SFTGFOP1), they are putting their reputation on the line to by saying this is the absolute best of the best of the best.

We then get into Broken grade tea. These are smaller pieces than the full leaf descriptions above. There is nothing wrong with the flavor of a broken leaf, it’s just broken.  It therefore, produces a stronger, darker cup of tea.  Many broken leaves will end up in teabags.  If the leaves are broken, they add a B.  This scale goes from Broken Pekoe (BP) to Tippy Golden Flowery Broken Orange Pekoe (TGFBOP).  The terminology goes on to describe Fannings (F) and Dust (D), which is also referred to as “sweepings,” a term that accurately describes its low stature.  These are the tiniest bits of tea that are destined for teabags.

If you have only drunk tea from a tea bag, you don’t know what you’re missing.   You can bring your taste experience to the next level with a loose orthodox, leaf grade, tea.  For the pure, connoisseur’s experience, try it without the milk, sugar and spices so your tongue can capture the divine subtle flavors. For a superior masala chai without a budget, an organic Assam second flush STGFOP1 tea would be an excellent choice. If you want a taste reminiscent of an authentic Indian street chai, CTC tea or a broken grade orthodox tea will work just fine.